Installing all of the stuff under the cylinders

I have installed the intercylinder baffles. The are a major PITA to get on without scratching the paint on the fins. I got the tapered fin barrels and I thing that was a mistake. The baffles did not fit well and I had to grind off some material near the base and bend the heck out of the thing to get it to fit around the base. I also RTV'd the ledges of the baffles so they don't wear on the fins. I have pulled apart to many that were toasted from the fins wearing on the baffles. I installed the oil line drain tubes and I had to bend on those to get them to clear the bottom of the cylinder fins. Some things never change. Bash to fit, paint to match. I then installed the intake tubes. I learned my lesson on the last engine with the big 0-rings on the tubes. Lube up the o-rings and the inside of the plenum tube. Slowly rotate the intake pipe into the the plenum tube being careful not to push it in too hard. If it goes all the way into the plenum, you have to pull it back out. This will pinch or cut the o-ring and you'll have to drive all the way into town to get another one if you have a hydraulic shop close by. Some of the intake pipes fit pretty tightly to the bottom of the oil pan. They don't hit but don't miss by much either. I though I have it wrong but the tubes only can fit into one hole. Once this was all done I got all of the push rod tubes installed. Same thing here, lube the o-rings that go into the cylinder head. Pull the tubes while rotating at the same time and use a long socket that is the same diameter as the push rod tube to help push it in. It should kind of pop into place and you will not be able to push it farther. BTW, did I mention that you should install the plungers inside the tappets before you put the tubes in place. Don't fill them with oil because you will need to test for rocker arm gap once the rocker arms are installed. They will hydraulically load up and you will not be able to compress them.