Bottom assembly part deux

You need to take the crank shaft down off the stand and orient it so that the #1 con rod goes up and the #2 goes down. 3 will also be up and #4 will be down. The #1 con rod is the 1st one after the crank main journal area. Its the cylinder closest to the front of the engine. This is one the other person is help you hold up the con rods pointing up and the keeping them from smashing something. Set the crankshaft down into the bearings and make sure the front bearing seats in the studs and your lines you made all line back up. You know that it is down all the way if they do.

Make sure you have all of your o-rings installed around you thru bolts and your 3/8 front bolts installed with the thread pointing up. You then get the right case with camshaft and get it over the case and lower it down onto the thru bolts. You need to have your helper hold up the other con rods while you lower the case down. Set it down square to the other case using the opening of the case halves as a guide. Once its down it should come to about 3/4" from being all the way together. The cases are now riding on the thru bolt shoulders. This is a VERY tight fit and you will need to get some 1/2" nuts with big washers to use to pull the case halves together. Old cylinder bases with the top of the cylinder cut off work good to. There is a big case plate that is made for this job but it is expensive to buy. We bought grade 1/2 nuts with thick washer. We installed the on all of the thru bolts and the back cylinder studs. We deburred the washers so that no sharp edges will dig into the cylinder face on the case. Grease the bottom of the washers and nuts. They will turn and you don't want to marr the case face. Once all nuts are installed with washers slowly start turning these down. Start in the middle, then work front to back and up and down, pulliing the case halves together as square as you can. It will be tight as you are seating the case down onto the thru bolt shoulder and guide dowels. Look in your opening with a light every so often making sure nothing has fallen off the upper case like o-rings and your thrust washer. If it does, you can put them back in place carefully with a screw driver or something else. You have to be careful here as you don't want to distrub the silk thread.

Once you have pulled the case halves together and lightly tightened down the cylinder nuts, try to rotate the crankshaft and camshaft. They should mover freely and with no binding. Get the engine back up on the stand and have your helper assist you with this as this thing is not pretty heavy. Secure to the stand and get your 1/4" and 3/8" nuts ready to go along with all of the case halve bolts. DON'T TRY AND PULL OUT THE FRONT 3/8 BOLTS FOR THE FRONT MAIN BEARING FOR WHATEVER REASON, IF YOU DON AND THEN TRY TO RE-INSTALL IT, YOU WILL PINCH OFF THE O-RING PUTTING IT BACK IN AND YOUR ENGINE WILL LEAK OIL FOREVER. TRUST ME ON THIS ONE!!!!They are spelled out what size goes where and to what torque settings in the ECI hardware manual. Of course they forget to give me my castle nuts that go in the sump so I had to stop and run to the store. Install the bolts and nuts one at a time using the torque sequence lined out in the overhaul manual. Once you have go through this, install all of the rest of the bolts and torque down. Let it sit over night and come back on go through the sequence again. It'll suprise you how much the thru bolts stretch. I bet I turned them another 1/2 turn before they torqued back to 50 ft/lbs.

Your bottom half is done and now it's time to start installing timing gears and the assy housing.