I will be posting again soon. I have been painting the engine. I didn't want to bore you with this task. However, I will say this, I use a GOOD engine enamel. I selected POR-15 painted from SpaceAgefinishes.com. A pint was about 25 buck. I bought two pints of silver and one pint of gloss black. I have hand painted all of the parts with TWO coats of paint. One coat is OK, but two will fill in the sand cast finish a little and make the engine a little more glossy. I paint with a camel hair brush. I did thin down the enamel to spray the cylinder heads. It's a lot of masking to do the cylinder in both silver and black. The other reason for hand painting is I can get a good coat in all of those little areas that are hard to reach with a spray gun. I have taken the time to paint some of the assy as well. The fuel pump and governor got a coat as well as all of the assy pads.
Now some will ask why I have not used a good poly-urethane paint like PPG concept or Chroma-One. I don't want to do all of that masking for one. I don't want to have the issues of spraying in my garage and my family in the house. I do not want to get any of that paint inside the engine and if I did, it would take a lot of work to get it out.
I also spoke with the guru's at several paint shops. They were not thrilled about the heat ratings of the PPG concept on the engine. You could paint the case parts all one color and leave cylinders bare and you would be OK but then the engine would look dorky. Aerosports paints their engines with Concept and they are doing OK, but it's not the recommended paint. That's why the high temp enamels are around. This paint will hold up to 700 degree temps. More than enough for my engine temps. They will also hold up to solvents and oils one the engine has ran and "baked" the paint a little. I will be posting pics of the crankshaft build here on Monday. See ya soon.
2004 Flight from KKLS
This photo is from when I was flying the airplane out of Longview, WA. This was taken early in the morning..
RV-6 #25188 in flight
Doug Eves sent this photo of the Ol' girl in flight. Taken from the ground, this is a great shot. You can see he is "relaxing" in his office in the sky...
Canopy deck
Here is the rails/decks all riveted in place.
Turrledeck stringer
I have gotten these stringers all fitted up. They are .063 angles instead of the J-stringers.
Rudder pedal support
This is the middle support for the rudder pedal bars.
Strobe light power pack plate
I have completed fabbing up the plate and now it's all riveted into the fuselage.
Priming............ugh!
You can see the golden color of the alodine in this picture. Just another step in corrosion protection
Parts ready for primer
I am about ready to put the final coat of primer on these parts.
Canopy Deck
The front deck all fabbed up. Now to do the other side. Only took a better part of the day getting this to fit right.
Canopy deck
This is the rail the canopy channel mounts to. The green tape is so I don't file the side skin getting a nice flush fit.
Fuel Vent
JD air parts CNC machined fuel vents.
Auto pilot bracket
I had to cut out around the autopilot bracket since it's mounted to the bottom skin.
Done!
All the sound proofing is in. The carpeting in the rudder pedal area has soundproofing under it.
Almost done with soundproofing
I have a few more panels to make and then I can rivet the seat pans in place.
Auto pilot roll servo mounting bracket
Here is a shot of the auto pilot mount. It will attach to the push/pull tube for the ailerons.
Seat belt anchors
I had to spray the seat belt anchors with Grey interior paint before I closed them off by riveting the panels down.
Installing soundproofing
I am cutting out panels and installing them in the floorboard. Adhesive spray glues them down to the floor.
More parts
Here is more parts needing paint.
Set up for painting parts
Notice the gold color of the panels. They are all alodined and ready for epoxy primer.
Priming nutplates
There is about 80 nutplates in the cockpit area. I dimple the ears of each nutplate and then prime them.
Fabricatin the stick mounts
I had to get all the stick weldments out and put them together so I could measure the centers. I didn't want to cut out the stick holes in the seats until I had this dimension.
Fitting seat pans
Here is the seat pans. The bottom pan is pop riveted in place and other is held down with #8 screws. I have not cut out the holes for the sticks yet.
All the floorboard and baggage panels
They are all in!. 4 days worth of work!!! On top the stick floorboards.
Baggage Area
I am drilling all of the holes for #8 screws. All of the black clecos are for screws. The rest of the panels get pop riveted down.
Baggage Panels
These are my own panels. The Vans kit does not come like this. I had some .025 laying around and made them. I got a real tight fit. They also cover the flap actuator.
Seat area floorboards
Right seat floorboards. The green is tape that I used to straighten out the ribs and hold it all in place while I blind drill.
Rear baggage floorboards
Getting the fit on the baggage floor boards.
Center section covers
This the center section cover and stiffeners.
Rear seat backs
This is the adjustments for the seats. The back has a flap that can be put in two positions.
F-608 bulkhead
Here is the splice plate and bracket getting fitted at F-608 station.
Whoops!
You can see the gap between the level and F-608 bulkhead. This is why I had to cut everything apart and make it fit.
Sliding canopy reinforcements
Here is the rib the sliding canopy rail attaches to. There is a .040 plate on top that ties it together as well.
Splice plate and stiffener bracket riveted in place
This is the completed modification to get the fitment I wanted. Notice the small gap between the top and bottom.
Splice plates to move the bulkhead up
I had to cut the bulkhead and move the top part up 1/4"
Baggage compartment wall
Here I am fitting the back wall. There are about 30 screws/nutplates on this piece.
My Mill and the Old Mans Rocket
I flew the Pacer back to my Dads for the winter. I got a ride back in the Rocket.
Playing at the beach
Went with my buddy Mike Mason to the beach in his 205. I call it the Millenium Falcon. It's a beast....
Short field takeoff
With 180hp and extended wings, this thing will get off the ground. It's a neat little airplane to fly but you have to respect it. It's not an RV.....
1958 Piper Pacer
Here is the old man's Pacer fully resotred with every mod you can put on one of these planes. We have floats for it too!!!
Small parts for the bulkhead
There is a lot of parts in this little area to make up the bellcrank assmebly.
Rear baggage bulkhead/bellcrank
Blocking up the bellcrank ribs so they are square and plumb.
Bulkhead stiffeners
Here are the small brackets that stiffen each bulkhead station.
Front firewall attachments
Once the fuse is out of the jig you have to complete the riveting for the longeron attachments.
Riveting up the rear fuselage
Next comes back riveting the rear fuselage.
Tail skin riveted on
The .040 skin is in place.
Riveting up the rear tail
There is a boat load of shims under the skins to make the tail come out flush.
Floorboard stiffeners
I back riveted all these on.
Dimpling station
My table set up for dimpling the skins.
About 500 cleceos installed
There is about 50lbs of clecoes on the plane.
Rolling the skin around
This is the tricky part of getting the skin to lay down tight against the tail skins.
All done!!!
The skin is all drilled and fitted. It takes a long time to get it right. Most of the time spent was rolling the rear tab over the bottom tail cone. However, if that fit is bad, it will stick out like a sore thumb.
Finish rolling and clamping
Once the skin is bent you have to clamp in down and backdrill it in a couple of hole near the big C-clamp. Then you have to put the bottom skin on and finish the drilling.
Rolling the skin on the bench
Here is how you roll the skin from an angle to a nice round curve.
Rolling the tab over
Here is where you have to go from square to round.
Fitting the rear portion of the side skin
The tab sticking up is the part that wraps around the bottom tail cone.
Inside the front fuselage
Here is the look from the inside of the front fuselage area.
Side skin drilled
Here the skin is all drilled. Now I have to cut out the rear portion to curve it around the lower tail cone.
Intial fitting of the left side skin
Here it is put in place to see where everything goes. The spar slots have alreay been cut out.
Rear access plate being installed on the tail ski
The access plate is all drilled and the backplate is made up. Try cutting out a perfect circle with tin snips.....
Floorboard stiffeners all drilled
You can see the angle brackets that tie the floor into the spar
All the bottom skins drilled
You can see the stiffeners drilled on the forward bottom skin
False Spar blocks
Had to make some spar blocks to simulate the spar for fitting the bottom skins.
Installing the forward skin
This skin is .040 with stiffeners. The angles have not been drilled onto the skin yet.
Bottom fuselage skins
Here all the skins are drilled and fitted into place. The forward skin is clamped down into place
Cutting out bottom fuse skins
Here is the hunk of .032 left over. Laying out the bottom fuse skins before cutting. Just barely enough to cover the bottom. Measure twenty times then cut once.
Bottom skin shot
Here is the bottom skin. The one that took three tries to get right. Made out of .032 now.....
Tail skins all drilled on
Here are all the tail skins in place.
Happy Halloween
Can you guess which pumpkin is mine???
All drilled and clecoed
Here the left side skin and bottom skins are in place. I still have some final trimming and filing to do.
Inside the tail cone
I clecoed all the skins fromt the inside since I am working alone
Another angle of the tail
Strapping down the skins
Here I am using wood stringers to hold the skin in place
Drilling holes
Here you can see the holes drilled in the longerons
Fitting tailwheel bracket skin
Here is the .040 tailwheel skin
Stringlining the tail wheel
Hard to see, but there is a stringline that is mounted on the firewall and then back to the tailwheel.This helps me make sure the tailwheel spring is on center.
Adding the tailwheel mount
Getting this thing installed and lined up is no easy task. A whole bunch of farting around with clamps and angle stock to hold it down so you can drill it.
Installing F-611 and F-612 tail bulkheads
Here they are just set in place. Getting them centerlined and plumb is another story.
Small angle added
This small angle is stiffening the intersection so it does not flex. Since you have to have the outside flush and the inside flush for compartment covers, it's best to tack it in place.
Baggage side wall all riveted up
The side ribs and false bulkhead are riveted up.
Lining up the baggag ribs
I am using some angle stock to make sure all of my ribs line up along the bottom of the airplane
All done, on this side
After two tries on the F-624 bulkhead, I got it correct and it looks good. I am also adding a small interlocking angle at the intersection for extra stiffness.
Intersection ribs and bulkheads
You can see you have to cut each one in the right spot to interlace them.
F-624
This is the small false bulkhead in the baggage.
Baggage ribs
Here is the bottom transition area of the square fuselage to the round tail cone
Installing baggage ribs
Installing the baggage area ribs
Centerline
Here I have stringlined the fuselage so I know everything is centered and plumb
F-607
Another view of installing the bulkhead
F-607 rear baggage bulkhead
This flimsy bulkhead is being put in place. This is the one that I have trouble centering
Seat ribs
Here the seat ribs are being drilled in place
Arm rest
Here the arm rest and support angles are being installed
F-606 Gusset
This attaches the bulkhead to the main longeron. You are looking at it upside down of course.
Installing the rear spar bulkhead F-606
Setting this distance is critical so the wing will slide into both spar receptacles.
Right side completed
Here is all the angles, gussets and bulkhead in place place on the right side. Rudder cable holes as well as nutplates to hold the fuel tank vent tube has all been drilled.
Foward lower attach
Here is the lower gusset and attach point on the lower engine mount bracket. Doesn't look like much but there is a lot of work in this little area.
Gussets attached
Here is all the small gusset pieces neccesary to attach the large angle to the centersection
Attaching the lower angle
Here the larger lower angle is now being attached. This is what holds the angle of incidence in place. Now I can pull the temp angles off and use them for the diagonal bracing.
Setting the angle of incidence on the wing
Here some angles are temporaily attached to set the correct angle. GET THIS DISTANCE CORRECT !!!!!!!! If you don't, your airplane will fly funny
False spar block
Here is some wood that is made up to similate the spar. I got some wood strips at Home depot. I measured the real spars thickness and made the wood ones .010 thicker so the spars will slip in easier.
Painting the longerons
Try to etch, alodine and prime these big gangly things. They move all over the place.
Drilling the upper longeron and gusset
Here I am drilling all the holes in the longeron and gusset
The longeron tool
I made this tool to slip over the longeron so I can twist it back into place or add twist if needed
Clamping the longeron down to the template
Here you can see the gentle curve of the longeron and the C-clamps
Engine side of the firewall
There is a centerline on the firewall that has to be lined up with the center line of the jig. Then it has to the correct height above the datum and it has to be plumb too.
Firewall mounted in the jig
A shot of the firewall installed on the jig
Gnat's ass on the money
Here is a shot of the machinist level I used to set up the firewall
All done
Now the jig is constructed and has to be set in place on the floor.
Installing the legs
Here the jig is on its side so I can install the legs
Fibeglassing the spinner
I had to reinforce my spinner a little on the front bulkhead. Here, your can see the "ring" that slips over the prop hub.
Alondined parts ready for primin
Here the parts have been Alodined and are ready for priming. In some areas I have used single stage primer instead of epoxy. During the construction process I will have to dimple these parts and the epoxy just breaks up. You end up repainting before you skin it anyways. Self etch primer does not "crack" off during the dimpling.
Etching parts
There is a lot of time spent etching parts.Here the baggage ribs are being etched and washed off. Not very exciting, but it needs to be done.
Seat ribs
The seat ribs need to be made up to allow removal of the sticks. There are small plates that are mounted on the flanges to beef up the areas that are cut out.
Tail bulkheads
These are the tail bulkheads all fabbed up. This is where the tailwheel spring mount and the stabs attach too.
Baggage compartment bulkhead
Here is the baggage bulkhead. This thing is very flimsy. I have attached some .032 angle all the way around the perimeter of it to stiffen it up for the jigging proces.
Fabricating the rear spar bulkhead
Here is the bulkhead the rear wing spars attach to. It's also your seat back and flap actuator attach points.
Exit ramp
I have constructed a cooling duct ramp so it flows the air out of the cowling . You can see the curved piece of Stainless on the bottom of the firewall. A speed mod (hopefully)
Ground buss
Here is a piece of copper that serves as my ground buss. The big bolt goes through the firewall and will connect to the battery ground.
Pilot holes
Here you can see hole in the firewall. Next I use a long center drill bit (double bit) to drill the hole. It's a better hole but you have to pull the bit out to mutiple times to relieve the shavings.
Engine mount drilled
I used small drills with a guide at first to get my holes correct. The drill guide is a 3/8 OD X 3/16 ID pieces of UHMW that goes down into the hole for the bolts. This allows you to move a hole a little if something is not correct. It also centers your next biggest drill bit.
Setting up the engine mount
It is wise to drill your engine mount holes not while you have it on the bench. Pay attention to the alignment to the the firewall.
Firewall is riveted together
It took a while to get the pieces all riveted together. You can see that I have all of the other holes drilled for cables, heat, brakes.....
Starting on the firewal
Here I am fabbing up the firewall and adding all the little parts to it.
Strobe light
These are the LED lights with the strobe package. The lights are double flash that alternate back and forth. The LED's are bright.
Covering the lense and back filling the gaps with JB weld
The lense is fitted to the cutout. However, even with the most careful fit, there still is a small gap. JB weld in the gaps and then a sharp razor blade makes a perfect seam.
Making the cutouts for the lights
You have to cut out the fiberglass back so the lights can go through it. The dark bar on the tip is JB weld where the two halves are mated together. I use JB instead of bondo on thicker applications.
Push/pull tube parts
Now I am building both push pull tube. I took some measurements so I hope the lengths are close. Note the alodined parts.
Wing skins riveted on.
Here is the last of the wing skins being riveted on the wing. Everything is done inside.
Pitot tube installed
The plumbing for the pitot tube is install and all hooked up.
Installing wiring
Here the wiring is ran throug the wing bays. There will be a remote compass in the left wing tip.
Aligning the flap to the aileron
Here you can see the flap is perfectly aligned with the aileron.
Jigging the flap to the wing
Here is the two wing templates that position the flap in trail with the wing. Then you can drill the flap brace that locks it all into position.
Fitting the flap to the aileron.
Getting this gap to look right and both trailing edges to align is not easy. The blue tape is holding a 1/4 shim to space them apart.
The flap almost drilled
I have the flap about 90% drilled.
Startiing in on the flap
Here I am drilling the flap ribs in place.
Push/Pull tube mounted
Here the push/pull tube is mounted to the airleron and you can see the clearances.
Aileron Bell crank installed
Here is the bellcrank. You must take notice that this piece is not symetrical. It has to be oriented correctly. Also notice the pin keeping it in the neutral position.
Aileron push/pull tube hole
The kidney bean shaped hole in the rear spar to allow the tube through to the control horns.
Aileron gap seal
In this view you can see the gap seal curving to fit up against the aileron nose.
Aileron gap seal
Installing the gap seal for the aileron
Aileron is getting riveted together
The stiffeners and the top of the spar are riveted to the skin. Then it goes into the v-block jig and gets buttoned up.
Aileron parts
All the parts primed and ready to rivet
Constructing the aileron skeleton
Fabbing up the aileron
Wing skin on!
Here the wing skin is riveted in place.
One piece wing skins
I have made one piece wing skins on this airplane. A piece of .032 cut from a 4x12ft of alum sheeting. Hard to hold onto it's so long!
Dimpling the wing skin
I am using my minion to help hold onto the wing skin. After 5 seconds of course, they are bored and want to bail on me.
Fitting the tank, finally!
I have the tank strapped down to pull it into place. This ensures and good butt joint with the wing skins. Then I screw it all into place.
Fuel pick up and sendng unit installed
Here is a shot of the end rib and it's hardware.
Access covers installed
Here all the access covers have been installed and sealed up.
Plate installed and curing
I have installed the plate and the clamps are for keeping the seal while it cures.
Getting ready to install the baffle plate
Here the tank is on its side and ready for the back plate.
Pro seal laid down before installing the ribs
I lay down a bead of pro seal before I install the rib. I surround each hole with a bead so it seals it up.
Tank in the jg
Here is the tank in the jig for riveting. Notice there is only a couple left to rivet.
Fuel filler neck
Here is the filler neck installed. This is for a locking gas cap. Notice the tap that will hold the vent line.
Stiffeners on the bottom skin
Here is the stiffeners on tank skin.
Fuel pick up
Here is the end rib with the fuel pickup. I have not installed the sending unit for the the fuel level.
Tank skin drilled
Basically completed the drilling. Now it's time to pull off the tank and start drilling nutplates.
Drilling holes in the tank ribs
The tank skin was pre punched by me. I think layed out the rib locations off the skins. With a centerline mark on the ribs I can then see through the holes to line up the ribs
Fitting tank skin to wing
Here is the wing tank skin strapped down to drill it.
Riveting the leading edge skin
Here is the cradle I built to rivet leading edge and gas tanks up with. It holds the edge in place and makes it very easy to rivet. Beats wrestling the thing around on the flat table.
Pitot tube plumbing
Here is the plumbing. A little different from stock due to my extended gas tank. The tank extension plate covers the holes to route the tubing to the top of the spar web. I have used a bulkhead fitting to get it to the top.
Pitot tube
The pitot tube is outboard of the access panel. I am using a different pitot tube than stock heated ones. They want 500 bucks for a chrome heated one. I never used it on the last plane. This is the same style but non-heated. I will still provide ample wiring to wire in a heated one for the future.
Bottom access panel drilled
This is the bottom access panel and ribs all drilled with the bottom skins. This access hole is right over the aileron bellcrank.
Skins drilled
Here the leading edge skin and outboard bottom skin are getting drilled to the skeleton
Bracing the end rib
Once all the ribs are spaced parellel with one another, then you have to make sure the end rib is square. This is where your gas tank skin will butt up against. The squares are clamped in place so it can only be 90 degree to the spar.
Spacing out the ribs
I use thread-all to space the ribs out so when I skin it, the ribs don't move around.
Drilling the leading edge skin
Here I am pulling the leading edge skin tight with board stringers and straps
Working on the aileron bellcrank bay
Here is th stub rib and the brace ribs in the aileron bellcrank bay
WIng ribs drilled to the spars
Now that this is done, I have to drill the nose ribs on it.
More attach pictures
Here is the other side of the rib. Notice the .063 angle attached to the rib then it gets bolted to the spar.
Attaching rib brackets to spar
Lot's of brackets to fit to the ribs.
Aileron bellcrank rib
Getting all the angles and spacers made takes some time.
Left rear spar fabrication
Here is the spar getting drilled for the rear attach flange strips
My RV-6 at Victoria B.C.
I finally wrestled my camera away from wife and kids to get my pics from the Victoria trip I took with Doug. He flew out and I met him up in B.C. which is only about 20 miles across the water from my house.
Tank extension plate and tie down
Here is the parts waiting to be primed. Once I get them painted I will rivet them onto the wing and start on the rear spar
Working on the spar
Here is the left spar in the drill press. I have leveled and plumbed the press so when I drill a hole its square and straight.
Wingtip lens cover
Here is the cover all mounted and filled in around the lens to smooth it all out.
Wing tip lighting
Here is the wing tip lights all mounted
Landing lights and nav/strobe lights
Here is the lights all ready for install into the tip.
Right wing done!
Here is the wing all buttoned up.
Flap brace installed
Here is the flap brace installed. Looks like swiss cheese with all the lightening holes.
Wing wiring pulled
Here is the wire pulled through the wing. I put in some spares just in case!
Aileron brackets
Aileron brackets mounted to the wing. I had to use two methods to get them aligned correctly. One was the airfoil jig and the other was measuring. Using the tooling holes for the ribs and aileron does not work.
Flap and aileron completed
Here is the flap and aileron completed ready to mount onto the wing.
Smooth end
I have reversed the end ribs to make them flush with the edge. Hopefully this will add some MPH!
Aileron in the jig
Here is the aileron all drilled. Next is to debur and dimple, then rivet it back together.
All of the access covers installed
Finally! All of the tank buttoned up.
Looking inside the tank
Here is the fuel sender and pickup. Lot's of items to clear.
Lots of clamps
Here is the tank all sealed up with clamps holding the skins together during the curring process.
I'm half way done
I have gotten four ribs riveted in the gas tank and sealed. Now I have four more to go.
Stiffeners all riveted on!
Here is all the stiffeners riveted on the skin. I have sealed all around them and each rivet head as well.
Gas cap
Here is what the gas cap mounts into. It's the lock gas cap that Van's sells. It was difficult to rivet on due to the curvature of it.
Top wing skins on
Here the top wing skin has been riveted on. Roger, a friend from work, came over and helped me out. It came out real nice.
Leading edge skin riveted on!
I have gotten the skin all on and have the main skin clecoed in place.
Leading edge skin coming together
Here I am riveting the skin to the ribs. I have a cradle I clamp to the bench to hold when I rivet
Bellcrank ribs
Turn your head sideways so you can see all of this. I can't rotate the picture.
Lot's of nutplates
There is 88 nutplates holding the gas tank to the spar. Every nuplate take two rivets to install it.
Aileron Bellcrank
Here is the bellcrank. Notice the pin in place. This holds it in the neutral position for rigging.
Drilling stiffeners to the tank skin
Here are all the bottom stiffeners. I leave a gap between the rib and stiffener so it does not trap water.
Access panel
I have made the access panel. I used .040 so it's a little overkill but it keeps the skins from oil-canning (flexing) around the opening
Bottom wing skins attached
Here are the bottom wing skins drilled on.
Laying out rib location on tank skin
Here I am transferring the rib centers onto the tank skin. I then drill the rivet pattern from the stock skin into my skin.
Top leading edge skin
Here is the top part of the leading edge skin. My buddy Doug will be in envy with the .032 skins.
Bottom leading edge skin
Here is the bottom leading edge skins drilled on.
Bell crank braces
Here are the ribs for the bellcrank braces
Top wing skin
Here is the top skin drilled into place
Back drilling the leading edge skin
Here is my .032 skin under the original .025 leading edge skin.
Wing skeleton ready for skins
Almost done with the setup for skins. A couple more hours of rigging the wing and I start drilling holes.
Wing in the jig
Here is the wing resting in the jig. I have to mount it up now.
Wing jig
Here are the stands the wing will rest on
Gas Tank End
Here is the fuel pick up tube and the plate the fuel level float mounts too. Note the anti-rotation brackets installed over the nuts.
Gas Tank
Here is the back baffle with all of the access plates. It will be a lot of work to seal them all but if I ever get a leak, the fix will be easier.
Gas Tank
Here is the tank skeleton with back baffle
Aileron Bell crank rib
Here is the rib the aileron bellcrank mounts to. Lot's of fabbing and filing to get it to fit.
Wing tie down
The wing tie down is outside the area of the pitot tube. When the plane is tied down, the ropes will not get into the pitot tube
Wing skeleton
Here is the wing riveted together with the spars and ribs primed
Wing Assembly
Here is the ribs mounted to the spars
Lots of ribs
Here is the pile of ribs after drilling, there is 14 per wing
Attaching ribs to the spar
Here is how the wing ribs attach to the spar web. Notice the angle that is drilled to the ribs and bolted to the spar
Laying out the ribs
The skins are already drilled, so you lay out the rib location from the skin holes. Don't use the plans dimensions for rib locations-they will be off.
More wing parts
Making up more wing parts-the aileron bellcranks
Wing tie down
I moved the tie down to the outboard section of the wing. I then used a RV-7/8 style tie down. It has more area to grab the spar with. Out here, the tie down rope will not tangle with the pitot tube.
Stiffeners for the tie down
Fabbing up some stiffeners for the wing tie down
Rear Spar
The rear spar has been riveted together.
Working on the rear spar
Drilling the flange strips on the rear spar. Notice the double piece on the end. This bolts to the rear spar bulkhead.
Fitting the tank attach extension
Here is the plate extension that the longer gas tank will attach to.
Drilling more rivets
Here is another shot of the spar. I am taking my time drilling these rivets out.
Drilling spar rivets
Here I am drilling out the rivets so I can attach the tank plate
Honda VFR 800F1
Here is my ground Rocket-my commuter to work
Harmon Rocket
Here is a my Dad's Rocket
Horz stab tips
Here's the tips with a coat of Bondo
Rigging the elevators
Setting up the elevators to fit the horz stab. Starting to look like airplane pieces.
Here are the tips!
Putting putty on on the tips to smooth it all out.
Trim tab linkage
Here is the trim tab cover and linkage. Notice the aerodynamic cover I installed.
Left elevator
Here is a shot of the left elevator. Notice the trim tab on the end.
The counter balance tip with weight
The tips on these elevators are from an RV-7 kit. They have the weights out on the end.
Rolling the front of the skins
Here is the what the front skins rolled together looks like. Then you rivet the skins together and it creates the leading edge of the elevator with a round nose.
Attaching the tip
Here is the tip over the end of the counter balance. There will be lots of filling and priming to make it look good before painting.
The elevator counter balance
Here is the conter balance and weight that offsets the weight of the elevator. Notice the lead weight at the top of the balance.
Building the right elevator
Here is the elevator in the jigging process. Notice the counter balance sticking up.
Cut out for the bottom fairing
Here is the tape cut out for the rudder horn. This is how I got the perfect fit around the horn
Here is the rudder horn
The bottom of the rudder where the rudder cables attach
Rubbder assembly
Here is a shot of the rudder in the jig
Getting the top of the V block in center
Here is the laser line shot onto my ruler. I divide the V in half then measure it. I want the centerline right in the center of the V. This ensures no twist.
Setting up the Rudder V blocks
You can see the V blocks and laser plumb behind it. It shoots a laser line that is vertical and level horzizontal. The new tools I have today make alignment of parts easy.
Mini Me helping out
Auna came out tonight and helped put rivets in holes. She's three but she did a good job. Even though she has really small hands, she had trouble putting the rivets in the hole without them falling out. It takes a lot of coordination to get them into the holes. What a great way to get your kids hand to eye coordination honed down. And yes that is her PJ's. It was getting close to bed time!
Vert stab skeleton
Here is the vert stab in the bare bones forms. Not too much to it compared to the Horz stab.
The Horz stab/ Vert stab connection
Here is the bracket that will connect the two stabilizers. I made it a little over kill in the fact that it ties into another set of bolt holes in the bottom angle. All of this is in preparation for higher cruising speeds.
Finished horz stab
Here is the stab out of the jig and ready for tips. I will do all of the tips at once since they are fiberglass.
C frame dimpler
Here is the table and dimpler set up. I put a steel bar under the bottom of the frame that goes to the floor. This helps with any flexing when you hammer the dimple die into the skins. It makes a nice crisp dimple.
Ava the helper.
Ave helped me install the small rivets. Her hands are so small she can pick them up.
C Frame
Here is the C frame dimpler. Notice the carpet on the table.
Skins painted
Here are the skins dimpled and painted.
Both skins drilled
Here is both skins drilled. Now comes the deburring, dimpling, and priming before I can rivet them on.
Plumb bob shot
Here is a closer shot of the tip
Skins drilled to stab
Here is the skin drilled and clecoed to the stab skeleton. Now I need to repeat the process on the other side. The plumb bobs keep the tips of the skins aligned with the centerline of the spars.
Wood clamps installed
This is the plywood clamps that help hold the skin in place while drilling
Skins on the horz stab
Here is one of the skins getting mounted onto the stab. Notice the plumb bobs hanging down.
Tail jig
Starting work on putting the jig for the tail together.
Reinforcing plate
Notice the extra row of rivets. That is where the plate is riveted to the spar
Horizontal stabilizer
Assembled stab ready to mount into the jig. I will start building it tonight and mount the stab to it and plumb it up to get ready for the skinning process.
Finished wing center section
Here is the parts riveted together. It will be installed into the fuselage building stage
Wing center section pieces
The RV-6 center section. It a full carry through spar vs the RV-7 which has a box spar
Business end of my RV-6
Notice the sleek cowling and no screw spinner
Exhaust pipes
Here is a pic of the exhaust pipes mounted on the engine. I went with a 4 into 1 system this time.
RV-6
This is my old bird that I built. Doug Eves owns it and he is treating her like a queen.
How the stand mounts up
I bent some bar stock up to mount up from the stand to the engine.
Engine on the stand
Mounted on the rotating stand so I can slosh the oil around.
Rocker arm covers
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Installed the rocker covers: Nickle plated and electropolished
Installing intake tubes
A shot at the bottom of the engine.
All the cylinders installed
We have installed all of the cylinders and torqued it all down. Now to mount up the intercylinder baffles, oil drain lines, intake pipes and start installing all of the pushrods tubes.
Putting the cylinders on the case
Once you complete each cylinder assembly, start putting them on the engine. We did #2, then #3, then #4, then, #1
Ring compressor
Here is the ring compressor I bought from the auto store. It worked but it was hard to to use and the edges of it were very sharp. I cut myself several times putting the piston in the bore while trying to hold it all together
Valve springs installed
You better have two people and all your tools ready to go. Compressing the springs and installing the little keepers on the stem in a major PITA. By the fourth cylinder you have the hang of it.
Getting ready to compress the valve springs
Here is the very hi-tech way of instaling the valves. Notice the post the cylinder is on. It is pushing on the valves to help keep pressure on the valves so when you compress the springs the valve does not open.
Installed valves
Looking inside the cylinders once the valves are installed. Make sure everything is cleaned.
Installing the valves
Lubing up the valve stems prior to installing them into the valve guides. You don't want to scratch the stems.
Before the storm
Almost everything needed to install the cylinders is here.
Here the cylinders
Cylinders awaiting the components. The black tapered fins will look cool when it's all put together.
Painting the cylinder fins
You have to paint the fins on top so that the type of cylinder wall can be indentified. Mine are Cermanil and have two silver bands. Since the cylinders are already silver, I painted a black middle band to seperate the two silver bands.
Prop governor oil line
This steel line supplies oil to the prop hub. Some of the other kits use a flex hose to the front. I personally don't like those styles. This is more compact, looks better, and saves weight.
Installing the prop governor
Here is the prop governor on the pad. This is small one and weighs less than the Woodward
Oil pressure relief valve
Here is the oil pressure relief valve. You screw it in to adjuste the pressure up. It just compresses the spring in there making it harder for the oil to push it back
Outter valve spring
What way is up???
Look at the lapped valve
One valve is lapped and the other is not. The one with the darked band on it near the outter seat is the one that has been lapped.
Can you tell which one is not ported?
See how dull it is and grainy the port looks. This one is direct from ECI. BTW, this is an exhaust port.
Can you tell which one is ported?
This one has been ported somewhat. They area around the valve guide is really hard to get at. I had a smaller flap wheel and still could not get it all done.
Fuel pump fittings.
Here is some of the fitting required to use the fuel pump. Pictured here is the left side where you have a fuel pressure fitting drilled in the fuel pump fitting. This is where I will get fuel pressure readings from.
Side picture of the sump
Sump installed and giving you a profile of it. For the those that are using the updrate sump, you can see how much space you save not having the scoop.
Bottom sump installed
Here is the sump installed.
Getting ready for the sump
Installing the bottom case bolts and safety wired.
The engine so far.
Here is the engine with the assy case installed. Coming together nicely
Fuel pump
Here is the arm for the fuel pump looking at with the sump off. I did this now instead of waiting to see if I could get some ethonal compatible diaphragms for it. I can always take it apart with the body/arm still left on.
Back of the assy case
Here is the other side with the vac pump drive. Aerosport is sending me a cover for it. I got some spacer as well to make up the lenght on the studs.
Back of the assy case.
Here is the oil filter extension installed.
Bottom engine assembly
Here is a fun shot looking at the gears when the assy housing is mounted on the engine. Note the oil pump near the top is mated to the crank gear slot. This is what drives the oil pump a the same rpm as the crankshaft. You have to have all of the stuff lined up when you drop the assy housing down onto the back of the crankcase.
Bottom engine assembly
All of the gears in place and you can kind of see the back case bolt under the camshaft gear.
Bottom engine assembly
This is the fuel pump idler gear with the timing marks lined up. #1 cylinder @ TDC and then put the mark on the right gear teeth. The single 0 goes between the two marks on the cam and the two 0 go between the 0 on the crank gear. You can't mess it up.
Bottom engine assembly
Here a better shot of the tach shaft
Bottom engine assembly
Here is a picture of the idler gear shafts. It says to put the bolts in a torque to 204in/lbs. Then safety wire. I did not do this. I used the lock tabs like on the crank gear. The tab goes under the bolts and then you torque the bolts down and bend the tabs up to the side of the bolt heads. I used a 3/16 diameter punch to get the tabs smashed up against the bolt head. The tach shaft is also shown in place and the internal retaining ring is put into place locking the tach shaft down.
Bottom engine assembly
Back on the stand. We are torqueing the thru bolts and case bolts down per Lycomings specs. There is a sequence in the overhaul manaul and you need to follow to the TEE. You should see hylomar squeezing out of the halves. Hopefully not too much you don't want to float the string out.
Bottom engine assembly
Case halves going together. We are tightening down the some nuts on the thru bolts to pull the halves together uniformly. Make sure to put nuts on the thru bolts on the other side so you don't pull the thru bolt right thru the case.This where the sticky axle grease comes into play for the thrust washer option. I have to look in there with a light and poke at it make sure it was in place next to the crankshaft. It fell down onto the other washer but it ended up seating up against the crank face and working out.
Bottom engine assembly
Camshaft in place, don't forget the tappets first. This is a false picture because the camshaft goes into the right half and gets wired into place. When you invert the case to lower down on this one, it will keep the camshaft and tappets from falling out.
Bottom engine assembly
Note the string on the inside of the bolt holes. Also the string is put on the bottom half so that is doesn't get distrub when you mate the case halves together. Thrust washer also in place under the main bearing journal.
Bottom engine assembly
Left half down and mostly ready. Getting ready to put silk string on the top half face.
Bottom engine assembly
Main bearing, tappets, and thru bolt o-rings all installed.
Bottom engine assembly
Fitting and marking the front main bearing, it then gets lubed up and installed on the crankshaft. When you lower the assembly down into the case the lines tell you if it's all the way down or not. Make a cross hair mark for fore/aft alignment as well.
Bottom engine assembly
Crank gear close up. The gear is scalloped so you can put a feeler gauge under the gear and the top of the crankshaft. If you can't get a .0015 gauge under the gear after you torqued it down, then you know it's seated down in the recess correctly.Note on the left side of the bolt the retainer tab is folded up against the bolt. This holds it all in place so the bolt cannot come undone.
Bottom engine assembly
Crankshaft ready to go, note crank gear installed
Bottom engine assembly
Putting con rods on crankshaft
Bottom engine assembly
inserting bearings into con rods
Bottom engine assembly
Weighing wrist pins
Bottom engine assembly
Weighing con rods
Cleaning parts
I acid etched all of these parts in prep for painting them. You have to be careful not to get etch on the internal parts.
Oil pressure fitting
Here is a 90 degree elbow installed. You have to put this on BEFORE you put the assy case on the engine
Oil pump
Here is a pic of the pump installed in the back of the assy case. You have to bolt down the body to 204 in/lbs. It's hard to line up the castle nuts for correct line up of the safety wire. The gears need to rotate freely after everthing is torqued down.
Installing fuel fitting
I have bonded a fuel fitting to the bottom of the sump and drilled a hole in it. This is for fuel that accumulates in the sump in the taildragger mode. Notice the original position where the pen it pointing. This was for the Mooney 201 which was a nosewheel plane.
Thrust washer option
The pen is pointing to the thrust washer option. It is designed to kep the crankshaft from running into the case.
Camshaft lubrication nozzles
I elected to install the cam nozzles as well. Hopefully this will help with spalling.
Installing cooling nozzles
Here are the installed nozzles, I cleaned them prior to installing
Oil galleries
Blowing out the oil galleries
The engine case
The case come unpainted but is still a beauty
The consumables
All you need to goop up the engine
Engine kit
Here are all of the parts
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